TomTom Rider 2


This GPS has been discontinued.  Regardless, map updates are still available and it was considerably less for me to transfer this GPS from my Goldwing to my new Can-Am Spyder RT-S SM5.

SPECIAL THANKS TO NORTHSTAR (from SpyderLovers.com) FOR HIS ADVICE ON HOW TO MAKE THE POWER CONNECTION.

CLICK ON SMALLER IMAGES TO VIEW LARGER IMAGES.



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Mount Bracket from KewlMetal
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Mount Bracket from KewlMetal

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TomTom Rider 2 Mounting Bracket

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Ram Mount that was utilized to mount
to my Goldwing

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The Rider 2 Mount shares the same bolt hole
configuration with most Garmin GPS

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TomTom Rider 2 installed on Mount which
is bolted to the KewlMetal Bracket

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Removing bottom bolts from RT handlebars

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Removing bottom bolts from RT handlebars
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Removing bottom bolts from RT handlebars

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2 lower bolts are Spyder RT original bolts.
Top bolts provided by KewlMetal

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Original Spyder RT bolts are 7mm.  I went to
Autozone and purchased 7mm BIT.  KewlMetal
bolts are 8mm


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Use Loctite BLUE to dress the new bolts.
Prevents the bolts from loosening from
vibration.

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KewlMetal Bracket and TomTom Rider 2
mounted to Spyder RT handlebars
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KewlMetal Bracket and TomTom Rider 2
mounted to Spyder RT handlebars

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KewlMetal Bracket and TomTom Rider 2
mounted to Spyder RT handlebars
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KewlMetal Bracket and TomTom Rider 2
mounted to Spyder RT handlebars

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KewlMetal Bracket and TomTom Rider 2
mounted to Spyder RT handlebars

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KewlMetal Bracket and TomTom Rider 2
mounted to Spyder RT handlebars

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Remove the 4 bolts holding the dash in place.
Pop the left speaker grill

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Remove the 4 bolts holding the dash in place.
Pop the left speaker grill

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Dash Bolts Removed.  Notice I placed a towel
under the handlebars to prevent the
bolts from falling into the motorcycle
housing if the bolts are dropped.


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Fuel Gauge

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Temperature Gauge
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Left speaker grill popped out.  I started at the top
and worked around, releasing the tabs
carefully

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The RED nylon line was used by me to figure
out the route I would take from the speaker
opening to the back of the Fuel Gauge.  I was
trying to figure out the best way to route
the power line.

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Purchased a T25 Torx screwdriver to remove
the 4 Dash Screws

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Purchased connectors for the power source.
Chose to use orange and black wires from
the fuel gauge as my power point for the
TomTom Rider 2 GPS


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Used ORANGE nylon line to figure out how to
route the power line from the GPS to the Speaker
Opening

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Used ORANGE nylon line to figure out how to
route the power line from the GPS to the Speaker
Opening

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Center Tab.  Pried it loose (beginning
at the top) from the handlebar center
console.  Same opening that would be
utilized by the OEM Garmin GPS from
Can-Am

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Used an electric soldering iron (with
a fine point) to start a beginner hole for
the power cord from the GPS through the tab.

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Heated a philips head screw driver (of sufficient
diameter) on my gas stove.  Then inserted
the tip in the starter hole and widened the
diameter of the opening so I could feed
the power cord from the GPS through the tab
in the center console.


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After I fed the power cord through the tab, I
reassembled the TomTom Rider 2 and
KewlMetal Mounting Bracket on the
the Spyder RT handlebar.  I temporarily
connected the power cord to make
sure everything worked.

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I fed the power cord into the speaker opening
(ORANGE Nylon line photo above) and
then up through the opening I discovered (see
RED nylon line photo above) to the back of the
opening for the FUEL gauge.  Prior to making the
final connections for the power, I tested the line
and the power source by inserting the bare
wires into the connector opening for
the FUEL gauge
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I turned the key on and the GPS powered up.

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I turned the key off and the GPS begins to
power down.

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I used velcro strips and velcro tabs to
hold the power cord wires in place.


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